Lessons in Malindi

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Sunday night, I’m seated towards the end of a long dinner table, which are basically three or so tables rammed together to create that Romanian effect. The restaurant is in White Elephant hotel, an Italian spoon in Malindi; small, intimate and white. We are three black people seated in the entire restaurant. The rest are either serving wine, handing menus, clearing tables or are frozen in pictures on the wall. All around me are a sea of white faces: White faces twirling globs of pasta around their forks, white faces chortling at some joke, white faces throwing wine at the back of their throats, white faces laying thick hairy paws on the skinny thighs of their dates. I’m no racist. I like white folk.

My table is racy. Opposite me is seated my host in Malindi, a young cool stylish Brit with a ghoulish sense of humor. He looks exactly like the latest James Bond, Daniel Craig, I mean exactly. When I first met him for an introductory meeting I mention that observation to him and he had growled, “Innit?” I bet that night he stood before his bathroom mirror and muttered, “Stirred or shaken? Do I look like I give a shit?”

To his left sits James Bond’s lovely girlfriend. Clear blue eyes. Amazing tan. Brilliant conversationalist. Down to earth. Gracious. Oh, so damned gracious. She runs some sort of a water sport fitness thingi which makes people stay fit, like a gym, but in water. It’s complicated. She is also mad about surfing. She turned 33 a few days ago and the dinner is in her honor.

When we were coming down, Bond had spent over an hour clearing her birthday gift – shipped in from SA- at the immigration, a customized surfing board: a sleek white sexy thing with these little flowers at the bow. She had gone bonkers when she saw the gift. Bond, in his element, had later asked her over dinner that night, “So darling, are you going to spend the night with me or the surf board?”She chuckled and tilted her head adoringly and stared into his eyes. Angels sang.

To my left, scattered in eight or so seats are a bunch of surfers and their girlfriends. There is the silent point-five guy who looks like Eric Bennet. Next to him is his woman, sitting with one leg folded under her. She seems horny, because she keeps rubbing herself on the guy…but Bennet doesn’t mind, who would he? Next to them is a grisly haired and extremely tanned bloke with a potty mouth. He is funny. Very funny. Next to him is a black arty looking dude in spectacles, chilled out guy. Next to the black dude is a radio personality, the black dude’s chick, I suppose, because she removed a speck of something from his beard…twice. You should have seen how she removed that speck. Next to the lady who hates specks on beards is a skinny guy with blonde hair and a mischievous face. He looks stoned. Nay, he is stoned. He looks like a typical surfer bum. His eyes are red, droopy and spaced out. He laughs a lot. He keeps calling –jokingly- the grisly haired guy seated across him, “Dad”. So he will tell the waitress, “Please get dad another bottle of mineral water,” Or, “Dad, is your mashed potato soft enough for you?” Then he giggles into his napkin. He keeps this act throughout dinner but lucky for him it sounds fresh every time he says it.

Then next to him – and directly opposite me – is this bewildered middle aged Australian who regales us with tales on how he almost died scuba diving in Ozzie. He looks like he last slept just before promulgation. He is a masterful storyteller; full of witticism and imagery. Next to him is Bond. James Bond.

To my right is an old man, maybe 65years of age. He is a property market mogul, flew in from SA, travelled with us from Nairobi. He is a hedonistic man, always has a cigarette burning between his fingers, always has a glass of wine or whisky by his elbow, and always has a tale to tell about the economies, culture or life. A well informed chap. And he is a mountain of a man; 6’ 3’’, burly, big girth and a booming voice. And an irreverent sense of humor, talking to him felt like talking to Jack Nicholson, or the character Osano, in Mario Puzo’s book, Fools Die.

This guy is one of the main reasons for this post. Let me say that, this is going to be a short post because I’m writing it at 11pm Sunday and from my phone. It’s laborious.

This guy is important to me because he has lived his life. Quit his job, started a business in Dubai when everybody thought he was being foolish, in 6years he was making $3m a month! He then opened offices all over the Middle East, Europe and in Nigeria. He has been divorced twice and is now married to a Kenyan girl who is 5years younger than his last born daughter, he told me as he drained his second bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. “Second chances mate, second chances, you got to grab ém.”

‘’Er, more like third chances in your case.’’ I said to which he laughed and coughed hard.  He seemed happy, but I have been around long enough not to take things at face value. Everyone wears a front. Everyone puts his best foot forward. Everyone wants to be thought in good light…well, except Sonko. Although the old guy was obviously rolling in the cheese, he seemed on a path; all the smoking, all the drinking, he didn’t seem like a man who was trying awfully hard to live long enough to enjoy his wealth…or young wife. But if you separated the chaff from the wheat, you found lessons in this guy.

Throughout my stay here I have been picking his brain, asking him questions, personal questions about life, about fears, about failures, about regrets, about wrong decisions in his life, about family and career and passions and drive and balance and sex and all the things that a 60yr old man will tell you that you won’t read in any book.

I’m asking him all these because I’m in a slight transition face of my life and I’m looking for help from mature man to turn the nose of my ship into the right harbor. And he turned out to be the best bit of my Malindi trip…ok, apart from some drunken Italian who kept calling Al Shabaab, Al Kebab.

Esquire magazine has a section called What I’ve Learned where they pick an icon or some random guy and ask them what they have learnt in life. The tycoon guy was my subject. And here, is a thumbnail list of things I picked from him. Hope this helps you, like it did me. Okay, some of them:

This thing will kill you. (Holding up a burning cigarette). The person you enjoy sex with the most will be the one to change you. When you make your first million, you will make many rubbish friends. Don’t seek your friend’s advice when you want to engage in a big business venture, most of them will discourage you than encourage you. This thing will destroy you (holding up his glass of whiskey), put family before it. Fuck exercise (laughs when he says this one). What has money brought into my life? Insomnia. Don’t let your children forget you. At some point, you will have to stop working for someone, I stopped at 46. The age between 33yrs and 44years are the most defining for a man, that’s when you have the chance to transform your person. Wear a condom. Religion is not for me, but I’m sure it has its usefulness. These never such thing as a bad decision, it’s what you do after it that matters. I like my pizza thin. I was robbed once: they walked into my house when I was leaving the bathroom in the morning, they threatened my young wife with rape and threatened me with death, I was humiliated but grateful I lived. Cowardice doesn’t live at the end of a gun, it lives behind the barrel of the gun (I really liked this quote, I found it sharp). I don’t use Viagra (male bravado, totally allowed). Divorce is only hard the first time. Never read during breakfast. (“What about dinner?” I asked). Or during dinner. In fact, don’t read in bed either. (Aw come, on!). Read whenever you can, you will learn from books more than you will watching TV. (I saw him read and complete two books during our stay, he calls it “speed reading” where you focus your eyes at the middle of the page and take in the top layer of a story. We both agreed it’s only useful when reading business reports, not works of art). Eat spicy chicken wings, good for you. Once in a lifetime, every man should tell his employer, “Stick your job. I quit.” (“Or,” I added helpfully, “Is this man bothering you, maám?”). Love your woman. (…and die for your country – Troy.) Fuck exercise, again. Manhood is about the show of might. You build character by knowing who you are. Respect and humility are the keys that open doors. Eat well, drink in moderation. (Hahahaha. Right, old man.) Always have your seatbelt on, I know that after an incidence in Liverpool. (I won’t recount this story here, it’s boring and windy. But in short; it was raining, he had no seatbelt on, he drove into someone’s living room as they were sitting for dinner).

There you have it, words from a tycoon. I found him very engaging, this guy. Put a few things in perspective for me. As we watched Rugby finals together, seated just the two of us in the resort’s foyer – and waiters standing behind us, glued to the telly – he turned to me and said, “You have been asking me questions since Friday, you need to also give me one lesson you have learnt.”

I didn’t have to think about it. I said, “Never trust a man who doesn’t share his peanuts.”

He slowly turned back to the telly.

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  1. What really interested me were the lessons the tycoon gave you.
    And the one you gave him. That was hilarious.
    The rest is just bull.

  2. He is right, reading feeds the mind very well.Books have taken me to every country in the world, outer space, into people’s minds and their bedrooms as well. Eh, I know things.

    “Reading maketh a full man, conference a ready man, and writing an exact man.”-Sir Francis Bacon-. You covered all three here. Good luck with the transition.

    Pretty good for a post written from a phone. Most phone posts I have read have the trademark ‘SMS language’ 🙂

  3. Laughed at the promulgation joke.
    This weekend i was also down in Malindi and Kilifi, shared a table with a Brit who kept asking for the Swahili translation for all the dirty words in his head… where do they get off…
    Money brings insomnia? That’s a risk i’m willing to take.

    1. Am sure the vulgar Englishman must have been a fa 5o-something year old Manchester United fan smoking like a fume cupboard! I’ve met one of those too. The very opposite of charming 😀

  4. “I didn’t have to think about it. I said, “Never trust a man who doesn’t share his peanuts.”

    He slowly turned back to the telly.”…..Biko..you used me..when I become a tycoon..I will never take any “wise” word from you.

  5. Hope I get to be the first (teacher’s pet 😀 ). Anyhu the tycoon is wise, there are a few lessons I could pick up from him………….seriously Biko was that the only lesson you could teach him??? Lovely read and have a lovely week.

  6. made my cold morning…what a day, what a story! and its only Monday!..ehee…”Cowardice doesn’t live at the end of a gun, it lives behind the barrel of the gun” so true

  7. Biko,i envy u 4 meeting this dude.i’m saving this post as a note in my fone.when stuck in traffik,i’ll plug my ears with earfones,really loud earfones,play Eric Virgal and read it.
    Yeah,fuck exercise B-)

  8. I am at that point in my life where nothing seems to be working out for me…..lost my job on friday,broke up wth my mama,woke up today and found 3 regrets in my mail………yeah,i could hold on to this advice for quite sometime…………….

    1. “Some days there won’t be a song in your heart. Sing anyway.”
      Be encouraged and know that the God who holds your tomorrows is 110% committed to make ALL things beautiful for you in His time. Bless you.

    2. Hey taffy’s bro, you are at the best point right now I bet you. Was there two years ago and thought it was the end of the world, kumbe it was a blessing in disguise. If you can write well or are good in some field, why not head to Dealfish website, get yourself one of the academic writing accounts being sold there and begin making money? Its peak season right now and believe me you may never look look for a job again. You could also check out, Guru, Elance and Freelancer sites for freelance jobs for the time being and as you think about your next move.Dont sit and have a pity party!

      Pole Biko I had to sort a brother in distress, that’s what I do best.
      Oh your writing is superb, I guess I need some note book to be noting the vocabularies, you know like the ones we used to have In primo ,filled with ‘he looked at me as if I had a diameter of an eye’ kinda nonsense LOL! My only concern is if the tycoon ever mentioned the defining years in a woman’s life, I would really love to know out of curiosity .Great post man !!

    3. Hey taffy’s bro, you are at the best point right now I bet you. Was there two years ago and thought it was the end of the world, kumbe it was a blessing in disguise. If you can write well or are good in some field, why not head to Dealfish website, get yourself one of the academic writing accounts being sold there and begin making money? Its peak season right now and believe me you may never look look for a job again. You could also check out, Guru, Elance and Freelancer sites for freelance jobs for the time being and as you think about your next move. Dont just sit there and no pity party.

      Pole Biko I had to sort a brother in distress, that’s what I do best.
      Oh your writing is superb, I guess I need some note book to be noting the vocabularies, you know like the ones we used to have In primo ,filled with ‘he looked at me as if I had a diameter of an eye’ kinda stuff LOL! My only worry is if the tycoon ever mentioned the defining years in a woman’s life, I would really love to know just to gauge myself.
      Great post i must say.

    4. Niaje Bro, relax, this too shall pass. We all have various seasons in our life and this could be the break you needed. Pray, do not allow yourself to wallow in the miasma of why me??? Pick yourself up, dust yourself and re-strategise, blessing are on the way.

      1. I’ve been to two crappy interviews this month – the boss yelled and banged the table at me.I Hate being yelled at! (Note: they called Me) but he couldn’t even maintain eye contact…. I kept it professional and did not lose my cool, held my head up high and of course maintained eye contact…. And then I came across this quote: There are many nay-sayers out there who will try to discourage you. Don’t listen to them. the only one who can make you give up is yourself – Sidney Sheldon.

  9. Really Biko, “Never trust a man who doesn’t share his peanuts.”that’s the best you could do?He slowly turned back to the telly..this broke my ribs.

  10. You wrote all this from your phone! Damn,you’re good. The end Biko, oh the end really got me. Awesome punch line right there.

  11. This setting almost resembles the infamous Happy Valley Set. Quite interesting chaps as well here. I personally pick out such quotes from movies,,and troy is way up there haha.nice read.

  12. For a Monday morning, I feel inspired enough to dive into deep waters. Thanks for the piece, it will go a long way into shaping the person I become this week

  13. Good Stuff Biko…”Cowardice doesn’t live at the end of a gun, it lives behind the barrel of the gun” and “Never trust a man who doesn’t share his peanuts.” Great lessons learnt!!!

  14. Biko seriously, after all these lessons the old man gave you, the only lesson you could give him is “Never trust a man who doesn’t share his peanuts.” lol…u r funny, ok i think you were trying to be funny.
    The way you describe all these fellows, they seem weird, but that is expected of surfers..lol.
    Nice read as always

  15. Biko, you enjoyed writing this, innit?! well you clearly followed the rule of listening more than speaking and when you did speak…did it have to be the peanuts?? 😉 life has never been better summarized in 400 words. An avid reader my favorite line has to be ‘Read whenever you can, you will learn from books more than you will watching TV.’
    life’s lessons well learned..
    thanks.

  16. “….Everyone puts his best foot forward. Everyone wants to be thought in good light…well, except Sonko….”
    Well put!!

  17. Sounds like a smart ol’ block.

    Society being what it is now means there are a lot of young men out there growing up (if you may call it that) without a solid male figure in their lives. Someone to show them how to shave, how to fix a tire and how not to flinch….

    Very few boys growing into men if you ask me. It’s a shame coz I think there’s a lot not being passed on and we’ll be worse-off for it in the long-run. We need more of this guy (obviously not more giant whisky swirling white men…you know what I mean)

    Thanks for writing this Biko.

    1. So so true.. N’ well put.

      Tho’ the same fella is of the ‘Preach water n’ drink wine’ club.. He that probably has two baby mamas out there. Alimony has a way of keeping such women un-married.
      In this case I’d probably say that ‘Always put on a condom’ was the best piece of advice

      Biko, I’d equate this scenario.. You, a pesky question-filled, clearly-not-in-his-economic-league (seeing that, in addition to his brains, you also wanted the poor man’s peanuts) and him a mogul; to You, a Millionare (..or so I hope- at the very least in ?Z?i?m?b?a?b?w?e? Kenyan terms) and a pimple riddled adoloscent, a few years into his hustle (Propably sneaking out of school to buy loaf and selling it at a premium to fellow students) who’s sucked up to you, for three laborious days bombarding you with questions..

      Then you get a great idea.. The very least this *I’ll let you pick out a word here* can do is tell me what he’s learnt, if anything.

      hehehe… Gues what the *use the same and/or stronger word here* comes up with.. wait for it.. Yes! ‘Never trust a man……. ‘ My take is his slow turn to the telly was deliberate. He was carefully weighing the pros n’ cons of using an open-hand slap vis-à-vis the back-hand.. N’ if he would get a lighter sentence if he drew blood!

      Cummon Biko.. The least you’d have done, is give the poor two-time divorcee, now swimming in nubile soft Kenyan thighs drunk, is a useful honest lesson-learnt quip..

  18. As i said ,”stories that could change our lives”.Short but hilarios especially that last part there “Never trust a man who doesn’t share his peanuts.” hehehe

  19. “Let me say that, this is going to be a short post because I am writing it at 11pm Sunday and from my phone. It’s laborious.”

    It is this demonstration of classical committment at what you do Biko, equalled by your effortless style of writing that sets you apart as a timeless partriach of achieveable possibilities. Thank you sir for a well writen piece, lots of lessons to learn from it. Hats off to you and hope this week rewards you with lots of peanuts, you deserve it.

    Cheers.

  20. Cowardice doesn’t live at the end of a gun, it lives behind the barrel of the gun. …and die for your country. are the brilliant lessons I think he had. Well let’s just say the one you learned about peanuts is quite the fair share of nuts, anyone who doesn’t share nuts probably goes to the gym.

  21. Kudos for posting this one on your phone. From mistaken identity in Lamu to lessons in Malindi – looking forward to more tales from our coastline.

  22. i feel there is more to the man with the peanuts who feels you all cant have some. our 60 yr old subject got it. i havent. so, my moment of humility and utmost honesty, how so biko? how did you come by this? who didnt share peanuts with you and why the contempt…how did i get ever so serious?

  23. I’ll excuse you for writing this maudlin ramble of a wine-soaked post on a phone but, you should-a changed your ‘transition face’ to’ transition phase’ long time ago.

    These old men, both poor and rich think they got the world figured. I rarely take them seriously coz they hardly ever do half the things they provide copious advice on. And so like a character in some book I read a while back, I am going to hold on for the longest it takes for some old fella to figure out why is it that it is only Goofy who gets to talk in Mickey Mouse (Mickey is from way back, ain’t he?) cartoons while Pluto doesn’t. Now, that will sort out the ‘Gordian knot’ of real advice for me.

    What brand of wine were you sipping again?

  24. Aaai! do you ever wonder why old man turned back to the TV? yes he felt cheated. he gave you many lessons and you gave back peanuts??

  25. good one, and you wrote on your phone? clearly it’s more expensive than mine! and preach on… the day i have to advise my son, your blog shall be a point of reference.

  26. uhmmm….maybe you oughtta cram some obscure quote from some long-dead fella and pull it out for situations like this because,” Never trust a man who doesn’t share his peanuts” is woeful. Just woeful.

    These never such thing as a bad decision, it’s what you do after it that matters. Truer words have seldom been spoken…but there is such a thing as a stupid decision and I could write a book on stupid decisions taken.

  27. This is an excellent read except for the use of the word ‘dude’. That made me wince, man. Hope you take his advice to heart. It is interesting to note that while you were at a place of great beauty (and Malindi is an amazing town) the ‘whiteness’ of the place is what stood out the most for you (other than the interesting dinner guests).

  28. Were you taking notes during dinner or you just have a great memory? No way I’d remember who sat where and their character etc.

  29. well written biko,,we are privileged to share some of the old man’s lifes lessons,Its admirable for him to warn younger people not to trip on potholes that he has hit in his life.’s journey eg cigarette smoking,excessive drinking,using a safety belt etc.

  30. Ditto @Sunshine. Us gals could use some of the advice as well. One sentence stood out above the rest: love your woman (man). Love makes all things possible 🙂

  31. Biko! I was one of the white folk at the dinner. Just enough flattery in your peice to forgive the barbs. Remember one of the reasons no white faces were working in the restaurant is because we can’t get the god damn work permits. And two fact checks: It was the Baby Marrow restaurant, not the White Elephant. And the dude with the spiky hair was high, purely, on life.
    You write masterfully, I am a fan.

  32. Am speechless – a beautifully written piece and the quote: “The person you enjoy sex with the most will be the one to change you.” – so so true – and this year I got to learn that painful and pleasure filled lesson.

  33. ”Never trust a man who cant share wth you his peanuts” . Life lesson from philosopher BIKO , rem the guy at standard on ur 1st day at intern?,

    Hey! sm newee here on ur blog and i just cant get enough of ur stuff. great stuff. mature stuff. properly articulated stuff. i’m in. my mondays wont be the same again

  34. Biko, great read man! I’m kinda in my 1st transition myself…u know the kind where you are in your twenties and life is still one big puzzle! Would kill to seat you down on a hot sunday afternoon and pick your mind over whisky or (brandy for me)… Long shot eh?…